Wednesday 6 December 2017

Great Wall of China...or Long City of Disney?

The Myth

The Great Wall of China is one of the great icons of the world. Stretching for thousands of miles along the ancient Northern borders of the Chinese Empire, a mighty fortification, wide enough to ride a horse along, dotted with great towers, it is the only human structure visible from space, and a symbol of the power, riches and ambition of the ancient Chinese Empire. None of these things are true.

How long is the 'Great Wall'

Official Chinese sources claim that the Great Wall stretches over approximately 6,400 km (4,000 miles) from Shanhaiguan in the east to Lop Nur in the west, along an arc that roughly delineates the southern edge of Inner Mongolia, but stretches to over 6,700 km (4,160 miles) in total. These figures are widely cited and reported uncritically in the West, reproduced in hundreds of encyclopedias, almanacs and travel guide books. But they are wholly false - in fact there is barely more than a mile of 'Wall'.

Is it really a wall? 

The Chinese for the 'wall' is revealing: in simplified Chinese, it is 长城; in traditional Chinese 長城; and in the pinyin transliteration 'Chángchéng'. What does this mean? Literally, "long city". So it is a wall, or a city?
 
As early as the Spring and Autumn Period, which began around the 7th century BC, the Chinese were building fortifications along their borders. During the Warring States Period from the 5th century BC to 221 BC, the states of Qi, Yan and Zhao all constructed extensive fortifications to defend their own borders. Built to withstand the attack of small arms such as swords and spears, these walls were made mostly by stamping earth and gravel between board frames.
 
During the Ming Dynasty a new conception of border defences emerged. The Ming had failed to gain a clear upper-hand over the Manchurian and Mongolian tribes after successive battles, and the long-drawn conflict was taking a toll on the empire. The Ming adopted a new strategy to keep the nomadic tribes out by promoting settlements along the northern border of China. People were forced en masse from Eastern areas to settle on or near the earth fortifications. The Emperor believed that that people living on the border would naturally defend themselves from attacking Mongols, and would act in effect as a standing army of border guards. The settlements along the border became known as the 'Long City', and can be seen as an early example of the 'ribbon development', a term used to refer to urban sprawl along narrow corridors which emerged in developed countries in the 1920s and 1930s along major roads.
 
While earthworks remained the main physical barrier on the borders, in some places border settlements built West- and North-facing walls, but these were mostly temporary structures of various designs and materials, and none have survived until the modern era. Although the border was never as impermeable as the Emperors would wish, and was not able to prevent all incursions, the border settlement plan was successful overall, and the Chinese Empire survived, flourished, and expanded, encompassing the lands of the Manchurians and the Mongols. The 'Long City' was no longer a frontier colony, but became a peaceful and successful community, specialising in trade, acting as a key north-South and east-West hub for the increasingly affluent and powerful Chinese Empire.
 
The demise of the Long City came with the cataclysms of the twentieth century. In 1934 the Communist army of Mao Zedong was forced to retreat in the face of defeat to Nationalist forces, and conducted the famed Long March along the entire extent of the Long City, forcing all of the inhabitants to join the Communist army. The Long City was left desolate, and the buildings and fortifications rapidly fell into decay.

So what's the wall that we visit in China? 

We are familiar with pictures of a great stone structure with fortified towers, winding its way through spectacular mountains. Millions of tourists take a day trip from Beijing to visit the crowded wall. Have you ever wondered why it is always the same section of wall that we see? It's because this is the only section of the wall. This showcase wall is South East of Jinshanling, is known as the Mutianyu Long City, and winds along lofty, cragged mountains from the southeast to the northwest for approximately 2.25 kilometers (about 1.3 miles). It is connected with Juyongguan Pass to the west and Gubeikou to the east. This short, but spectactular, section of wall is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is said to have been built in the 16th Century. However, while there are records to show that a wall was built here by a precarious Long City border settlement, it did not survive to the modern era. In fact the wall that we see today was built in the twentieth century in an attempt to promote tourism in the area, and to help to provide alternative employment for the local people, whose economy was then dominated by the growing of opium. American consultants were brought in to advise on the promotion of the area. The first suggestion, of a Genghis Khan-themed circus and adventure park, to be named Mongland, was rejected by the local people, who are historically enemies of the Mongolians. The second proposal, to build a 'Great Wall' was accepted, and the first stones were laid in the 1920s. The first structure to be completed was the gift shop, and two kilometres of wall were completed by 1933. However, as China descended into Civil War, the ambitious programme of marketing and promotion was postponed, the expected mass influx of tourists never happened, and the consultants moved on to work on the plans for Disneyland Resort in California.
 
In the 1950s, the Communist government promoted the myth of the Wall in order bolster a campaign to link the Communist regime with the pre-Revolutionary history of the Chinese Empire.It was in this period that the 'Great Wall' as symbol of China, and as tourist resort, was born. Interestingly, the first official tour to visit the wall took place on the same day that Disneyland Resort opened its doors, 17th July 1955.
 
Visitors today who attempt to trace the extent of the wall are therefore quickly disappointed. Hundreds of hikers, modern-day explorers, long-distance runners, travel writers, and sundry other self-publicists regularly arrive to trek the length of the wall. After visiting the few hundred meters of the showcase sections of wall on the official tourist trips, they find that the wall quickly peters out. Guides are available who will take gullible visitors on a lengthy trek through the Chinese countryside, at times finding remains of the border earthworks, which are presented as 'remains of the wall'. In some places, enterprising local communities have erected 'historic' walls, but these are rarely convincing as medieval structures. In fact, the guides and tourist authorities are experts at gaining sympathy for the wall and its heritage by pointing to the devastation that they claim has been inflicted on a wholly fictitious wall.

Can the Great Wall be seen from space?

China developed a space program with the specific goal of confirming that the 'Great Wall' can be seen from space. Unfortunately for the authorities and the myth-makers, no such evidence could be found. The Chinese space program was then re-oriented to achieve commercial goals, such as carrying communications satellites into orbit. The myth of the visibility of the wall from space seems to have emerged from a 1930s edition of 'Ripley's Believe it or Not' which is the first recorded instance of the claim, more than twenty years before manned space travel, and published by the Disney Corporation. However, it has been confirmed by US astronauts that it is possible to see the Belgian motorway network at night from outside the Earth's atmosphere.

The Finnish Roots of French Cuisine

Originally published 2008

Finnish food - worst in Europe


Any recent visitors to Finland will have had sympathy with Jacques Chirac's comments [1] that it has the worst cuisine in Europe. Tourists are typically confronted with the choice of either enduring an enforced crash diet, or  resigning themselves to bland, unappetising meals, always with minimal variety and often of dubious freshness.

The Eastern city of Joensuu is typical. Locals wishing to dine out have the choice of a Hessburger, a sort of downmarket Burger King (!) offering fare unacceptable to anything but the least sophisticated palate, and a couple of pizza restaurants with a menu of tinned vegetables, processed cheese and tomato paste on deep crusts that would be unrecognisable to the aficionado of a Roman pizzeria. Everywhere dairy products are verboten and flavourings are presumably proscribed by the Lutheran church. "During the past decades the Finns have been brainwashed to avoid butter, salt and other ingredients that are bad for your heart," as the BBC article also reminds us. Joensuu's 'supermarket' is a half-hearted attempt to purvey groceries, squeezed behind the cheap DVDs and remaindered books in a department store. Indeed the best that the Wikipedia page on the 'cuisine of Finland' can find to say, is that Finnish meals "generally contain several different vegetables".  What this omits is that you'd be lucky if any of them were fresh.

Helsinki certainly offers a wider range of restaurants, and opportunities for the more ambitious budget, but in reality it is the same story told many times over. Oh, and if you go there at the weekend, everything is closed, and you can join the hordes of day trippers ruing their decision to spend a large amount of money sailing across the Baltic to a city that is resolutely unwilling to relieve them of their roubles, kroner or euros. Helsinki could perhaps in one sense be seen as a city of superlatives when it comes to restaurants. It probably has the worst Chinese food, the worst Thai, the worst Mexican, the worst Argentinian steaks, and undoubtedly the worst kebabs.

But these observations, and Chirac's condemnations lack a historical perspective. What Chirac failed to acknowledge was the historical debt that modern classic French food owes to the cuisine of far-off, and much maligned Finland.

Finland and France - first contact


The first contacts between the culinary cultures of Finland and France came in the years of the Hanseatic League, the immensively pervasive and powerful trading community that dominated the economic and cultural life of Northern Europe in the late middle ages. In the 14th Century French traders came to the bustling city of Bruges to buy cloth and lace, and found that, in addition to fine clothing, they could buy strange and interesting food that the Netherlandish traders and sailors had brought from the Baltic. While the French peasantry struggled to survive on turnips and coarse bread, the enormous quantities of eels, herring and salmon, berries and mushrooms consumed by even the lowly burgers of Bruges were an eye-opener. Enquiries revealed that the people of Bruges were proud that they were "eating like the Finns", a land of plenty at the limits of the known world to the North, where everyone ate the same fare, and everyone ate well. A new conception of the possibilities of diet for the hoi polloi, and new expectations for the standards of cuisine for everyone were born.

The diet of the Baltic, while abundant, did lack variety, even then, but rather than this resulting in the lowering of horizons that we see today, in the Middle Ages it was the mother of invention. As well as some passably palatable fish, the thousands of lakes of the Finnish countryside are full of frogs. And in addition to the abundance of berries and mushrooms, the damp forests are plagued with snails. Enterprising Finns in search of variety in their diet were the first to reap these unusual harvests. And the French tradesmen and nobles visiting the fine hostelries of the Hanseatic City of Bruges were introduced to the exquisite delicacies of the frog's leg ragout and the baked snail.

The lack of variety of ingredients also introduced notions of flavouring and mixing ingredients in imaginative ways. While salmon, snail, turnip, cloudberry and dill casseroles did not survive unadapted to the tables of the French Empire, the very idea of the casserole and the ragout, of the mixing of vegetables and meat, with the admixture of fresh herbs, was a powerful one. When introduced into French households abundant with a variety of fine natural ingredients, the result was the birth of the haute cuisine that we know today.

The French jam and preserves so beloved of the English middle classes are another cultural gift of the Finns. Sailors to the far-flung Baltic ports, were in need of food that would survive the journey, and in particular need of fruit to stave off scurvy. A journey to Abo in the Swedish Empire (nowadays Turku in Western Finland) was perhaps the longest trip that the Hanseatic sailor would have to endure. In order to sustain them on the long return journey, the ships would stock up with the berry preserves which the Finns would make to keep them going through the long dark winter.

So while the Finns do undoubtedly have the worst food in Europe today, let us remember that it was not always so. The lesson for the Finns should be to raise their horizons and their expectations and learn from their forefathers. The lesson for complacent French politicians is surely to look to history before they put their marinaded and exquisitely spiced feet into their hungry mouths.

References